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These small, fertile islands near to the equator are a perfect destination if you want to have a break from travelling on the main land of Africa. This could also be a good choice, if you just want to go to a less frequently visited African country for a few weeks.

Until 1975 Sao Tome & Principe was a Portuguese colony, mainly used to produce coffee and cacao. Shattered over the country, large colonial buildings where the centre of coffee/cacao production. White Portuguese families inhabited these so-called roças. Small huts and houses of the slaves who did the real work surrounded these buildings. The slaves were mainly imported out of Angola, Mozambique and Cape Verde. At the end of the 19th century, Portugal was pressured by other countries to abolish slavery. In response, Portugal introduced “the contracted worker”. These “imported workers” were forced to sign a contract that they could not understand. This contract legitimised to deal with these workers as if it were slaves. For instance, if a contracted worker tried to escape from the plantation, they where punished fiercely (torturing was no exaction). Therefore, the “contracts” were a facade that enabled Portugal to let slavery exist for many years. In 1975, Sao Tome was one of the last Portuguese colonies that became independent.

Still, the recent history of colonisation and slavery is visible on the island. In fort São Sebastião in Sao Tome city, a museum gives some insight for the ones interested in this history. The exhibition reveals the relations between the slave and his master using pictures, paintings, examples of rooms where people lived and the accompanying household goods and instruments. Slaves living in small hovels, masters living is luxurious suites with beautiful diner sets decorated with the logo of the concerning roça. The masters sitting on a nicely set table, while the slaves had to wave with large screens to bring some cooling to their masters.

Everywhere, you will see beautiful colonial buildings that mostly are not so well maintained. It seems that most buildings aren’t maintained since 1975 because there where other priorities. Some old roças (e.g. Roça Bombai Roça de São João dos Angolares, Chamiço) are now rebuilt as hotel and they are often a nice and atmospheric place to spend the night. Usually, you can have diner there, although sometimes you will have to order in advance. Food is simple but nice and fresh. A standard meal in a low-end restaurant contains of nicely seasoned, grilled fish with fried bananas, salad and some fruit as desert. This all is washed down with a nice cold beer. After dinner, lots of people gather in one of the bars or restaurants to watch some Portuguese football.